Non so chi mi tenga 7a+

Non so chi mi tenga 7a+
Valle dell´Orco-Italia

martes, 11 de noviembre de 2014

Nuevas rutas "Trad" abiertas en el Valle del Turón, Málaga.

Hace unos días me llego un correo en inglés de Wolfgang Schüssler, sobre la apertura de 5 vías nuevas en estilo "Tradicional" en esta fantastica escuela que es el Valle del Turón, Málaga.

Me alegra que llegue información al blog de escaladores desconocidos y mucho más si son extranjeros. 
Esto quiere decir que el blog es visitado internacionalmente por los fanáticos del "Trad", eso me encanta y me motiva a seguir colgando información.

Os cuelgo la info literalmente como la recibi en mi correo:


Hola, my Spanish is very poor so I have to write to you in English.
I have done five new ascents on the Turon crag in Andalucia close to El CHorro.
I have also contacted the Rockfax guys from the uk, but they have told me to get in touch with you as well.

Here are the informations: 

1. "Ultimo Walter"  E2 5c 30m (6b) can be done in two pitches, but not neccessary. 

"Ultimo Walter"  E2 5c 30m (6b) 


La ultimo Walter esta en un pilar justo al llegar a la pared, este pilar tiene una vía que mas o menos la pisa que se llama "Sin bragas y a lo loco"

2. "Orang-Utan" E1 5b, 16m (6a+) nice wall-climb with a small steeper section at the top


3. "Monkey Face Brian" E1 5c (6a+) the route right next to Orang-Utan with a longer runout on the slab and the potential of a grounder!
"Orang-Utan" E1 5b, 16m (6a+) y  "Monkey Face Brian" E1 5c (6a+)


4. "Escalar circular" 2 Pitch 1. HVS 5a 16m 2. VS 4c 15m  superb two pitch climb with an outstanding belay ledge and a massive sling-placement and a big Crack (DMM 4cu Cam4) for the stance.
 "Escalar circular" 2 Pitch 1. HVS 5a 16m 2. VS 4c 15m


Las vías "Orang-Utan", "Monkey Face Brian" y "Escalar circular" están al bajar la canal del extremo este de la pared, a izquierda y derecha.



5. "Cuba libre" E3 6a 35m (6c) this is the best line I have done , a great trip on the natural features of this untouched wall in Turon (left of the first sector1)  http://www.enlavertical.com/sectors/view/300  . It has everything climbing can offer , from a small chimney to a big traverse (7m) and an amazing but very hard slab on the top part of the wall (6c crux). This can be well protected on a small flake (Number 2 Nut and Cam 1 and a sling). Picture shows the top section of the climb. It needs doing on a Half rope as the second would have a hard time on the traverse.
Right of the wall is more potential for at least 3-5 routes, but there are big pillars on top and I didnt want to clean any of these massive rocks as there where people climbing on the right hand side.
 

So these are the routes, all of them can be secured on good anchors on the top and as I see it dont need any bolts....

 "Cuba libre" E3 6a 35m (6c)

"Cuba Libre" se situa a la izquierda del sector 1 "Vino de Palma", reseñado en http://www.enlavertical.com/sectors/view/300. Como podeis ver en la foto siguiente.
 


Buenas escaladas!!

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